Ambullneo 2005 Fang Blanc Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley)

Partially barrel-fermented, this Chard is a blend of Bien Nacido and Solomon Hills. It's a heavyweight, so full-bodied, in fact, that it's one of the rare California Chardonnays that will benefit from bottle age. It has a candied, English dessert trifle flavor of apricots, peaches, citrons and green apples, baked into a custardy pudding, and the caramelized taste of charred oak. You'll even find a dusting of tannins. Best after 2007, and for another five to seven years.

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