Ambullneo 2005 Mastiff Pinot Noir (Carneros)

This is one of the larger, more imponderable Pinots I've tasted this year, meaning that it has the heft of something from the Rhône, perhaps a Grenache, although it never loses Pinot's silkiness. It's tremendous and forward in jammy cherries, raspberries and cola, and while it's dry, it has the sweet finish of an extremely ripe wine. Enormously complicated, it's an eccentric Pinot, but one you'll probably reach for again and again. From the esteemed Hyde and Hudson vineyards.

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