Ancien 1999 Steiner Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Mountain)

Pinot on Sonoma Mountain? Yes, if it's on the Pacific-facing side. Shares much in common with Sonoma Coast Pinots in a ripe vintage. Cherry, spice and peppery-tobacco flavors are framed by soft tannins and crisp acidity. Complex and compelling, this wine changes every second on the palate. —S.H.

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