Andretti 2000 Sangiovese (Napa Valley)

This is a full-bodied wine with very strong fruit, including some dark berry notes more akin to a big red like, say, Merlot—of which it contains a dash. At the same time, the tannins are light, which makes it kind of schizoid. It's also superacidic and tart. Made by respected Napa vintner Bob Pepi, it's a work in progress. —S.H.

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