Counoise—a southern Rhône blending grape—only rarely appears as a varietal wine, but this distinctive bottling makes a strong case for it. It's not just another generic red wine; it has a particular mouthfeel—elegant, almost Pinot-like—coupled with firm, slightly metallic tannins, sharp acids and accents of pepper on stone. Somehow the wine feels, more than tastes, European.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.