Among all the latest 2009 releases from Andrew Will, the Ciel du Cheval is the most shuttered and in need of further bottle age. Tight and tannic, it is unusually herbal for this hot climate site. Even after many hours of breathing time, it remains stubbornly closed. Given the vineyard history and winery credentials, it seems highly likely to improve significantly with more time.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.