Angove 2019 Warboys Vineyard Grenache (McLaren Vale)

One of this organic-biodynamic producer's finest wines to date, this is from coastal vineyards over 50 years in age and pressed in an antique wooden basket press. It's a tightrope of complexity and drinkability. The brambly blueberry fruit is backed by a potpourri dish of florals, dried herbs and spices, and there's a warm pavement nuance. The palate is elegant and refined with a linear structure. There's fabulous acidity, particularly for Grenache, and taut, powdery tannins. Drink now and up to around 2037. Christina Pickard