There is some alchemy at work here, for this unusual Dolcetto—all 24 cases of it—has the complexity of blended wines. Tart pomegranate fruit, streaks of stem and cement, mint and spice, all rise briefly and then fall away. It's a detailed wine, in the enigmatic style that marks this tiny winery as sui generis. Among the lineup of reds from 2010, it's best of show at the moment.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.