Anthony Nappa 2013 Giallo Sémillon (North Fork of Long Island)

Bold and unconventional, there's nothing quite like this late-harvest wine. Made from Sémillon grapes left to ripen and shrivel through midwinter, it's deeply concentrated with dried mango and orange-peel flavors. Fermentation via natural yeast on its skins lends a deeply phenolic astringency to the palate. It's dusty and mineral with a sherried aldehydic character attributable to deliberate oxidation in barrels, yet somehow, it maintains a luminous core of fresh fruit. A curious and thought-provoking wine for the adventurous wine lover. Anna Lee C. Iijima

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