Pure apple fruit emerges above the wonderfully biscuity autolysis notes and a touch of oak lends generosity and body, but nothing ever subdues the genuine fruit here, which expresses itself as the poised scent of ripe yellow and red apples. The acidity is exemplary, tight and focused, while the bready yeast notes add extra dimensions of body and texture. The length and persistence are a marvel. A total class act that is delicious now and will become honeyed with age.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.