The unpredictable character of Pinot Noir makes it hard to pull off a Blanc de Noirs. And this wine doesn't entirely succeed. Yes, the wine is in balance, red fruits working with acidity. But there is hardness in the finish, a cranberry juice tartness, which spoils the rest of the party.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.