Many are now playing with the low-alcohol, nervy side of Chardonnay, but Doug Margerum succeeds more than most. This bottling is light in the glass, with clean and crisp Asian pear, nectarine and mandarin pith aromas. The palate is tightly wound and energetic, showing sharp citrus and rounded strone-fruit flavors. Drink now–2030.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.