Although with its vintage date, this is only 10 years' old, don't think of this as another 10-year-old aged tawny. Like most colheitas, aged in wood and not topped up with new wine as are aged tawnies, this is much more concentrated, like syrup. It has some sweetness, but the dominant character is dark Belgian chocolate. Very dense, with a very dry aftertaste.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.