The style may be sweet and rich, but this mature tawny also delivers all the right old gold and wood-aged flavors. It does taste a young 20 years, having retained fruitiness and a round structure, a fine moment between youth and age.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.