So named because Counoise takes to long to ripen that it makes winemakers' collective blood boils, this bottling from Glenrose Vineyard is a great example of a lighter red wine from Paso Robles. Red cherry, rust, crushed gravel and dried herbs show on the nose, while the palate carries oregano, marjoram and a touch of cardamom against light red cherry and cranberry flavors. It's lively and fresh.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.