A wine that tries too hard. The extract is strong, giving some bitterness. And, although the berry fruits are sweet and rich, the tannins edge the fruit with hardness. On the finish, some smokiness enhances the black currant juice, but that astringency just won't go away.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.