Bass Phillip 2019 Estate Pinot Noir (Gippsland)

For this reviewer's money, BP's Estate Pinot offers the best bang for buck. While still a special occasion wine, it's almost as gorgeous as its elder siblings, and crafted for drinking younger. Ironically, it's also the one that takes longest to open up. But when it does, it billows aromas of dried cranberry, cherry preserves, umami-like mushrooms, cocktail bitters and potpourri. The palate is silky with a lift of crystalline acidity, wound ultra fine, talc-like tannins. An iron fist in a velvet glove, this is long and elegant, able to age another 5-7 years but drinking beautifully right now. Christina Pickard