Bass Phillip 2019 Reserve Pinot Noir (Gippsland)

2019 was the last vintages that renowned Pinot producer, Phillip Jones, had his hands in before selling up. And what a vintage to go out on. Lucid and detailed, this is an eye-wateringly expensive wine you could wrap yourself into like a satin robe, even without decanting. Heady aromas of red berries, mushroom, dried leaves, herbs, and flowers, there's a touch of vanillin oak that should disappear with time. The palate shows structure and power but never overt richness. Silky, tangy fruit is brightened by well-placed acidity. Chalky, chewy tannins come in gentle at first, increasing their grip and power over time. Long and persistent: Aussie sunshine meets cool Gippsland climate. Drink now-2033. Christina Pickard