This is a sweet and round and forward Merlot, at least upon entry. Then it takes a right angle turn, adding more astringent flavors of rock and earth and green tea. It's not quite Jekyll & Hyde, but it's not entirely pulled together. It needs a substantial piece of grilled meat to help soften those finishing tannins.
Paul Gregutt is a Contributing Editor for Wine Enthusiast magazine, a founding member of the magazine’s Tasting Panel, and reviews the wines of Oregon and Canada. The author of the critically-acclaimed Washington Wines & Wineries—The Essential Guide, he consulted on the Pacific Northwest entries in current versions of The World Atlas of Wine and The Oxford Companion to Wine.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.