Can a wine be light and serious too? This one is both. By light, I mean it's not real concentrated, fruit-wise. It's an earth-driven wine, with tomato and beet flavors, and it's pretty tannic. It's also light in the way it floats on the tongue. It's very silky. But it's a serious wine because it makes you stop and think about it, which is half the fun. It may also be ageable. —S.H.