Beringer 1998 Tre Colline Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell Mountain)

Quite as tannic as Beringer's other limited-release single-vineyard Cabs, although a streak of buttery softness makes it drinkable now. Richly marbled with cassis, dark chocolate and cherry flavors, and very dry. Seems to have the depth and structure for the long haul. Try after 2006.

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