Quite yellow in color, nearing orange, this oxidative-style wine shows quinine, walnuts and preserved lemons on the very concentrated, oily nose. The texture is sticky, with flavors of seared lemons and orange oil, yet it retains a lime-skin liveliness. It's quite an interesting bottling for fans of the style.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.