Minerality is front and center on this bottling, with concentrated pencil lead the focus, backed up by sandalwood and dried rose petals but no overt fruit. The palate offers ripe cranberries and buttered cherries, yet the graphite and iron mineral core remain prominent. Drink 2018–2028, allowing the fruit to blossom and slight star-anise warmth to emerge.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.