Initially spicy, this wine then develops an awkward barnyard character that is hard to shake off. The tannins are firm, dry, but sit at one side of the wine, leaving bitter fruit. This is a tough wine, not properly in balance.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.