The nose merely hints at tropical riches. The stony palate also holds tightly onto its fruit: it is only zesty citrus that can be divined amidst all the stone. Bright lemon shines above what seems a deep dark core of rocky earth. There is real drive and real energy in that bright, lemony vein that runs right through this dry, serious and almost brooding wine. The finish adds a touch of a more mellow apple note that persists throughout the long finish. Wait for this. Drink 2020–2035.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.