Bindi 2019 Kostas Rind Chardonnay (Victoria)

Sensitive and highly experienced winegrower Michael Dhillon turns out a Chardonnay of both delicacy and concentration that makes you feel like you're on vacation. There's a perfume of honeysuckle and jasmine lacing citrus and stone fruit, and a creamy, flinty underbelly. In the mouth it's slippery yet linear with purity of fruit and bright acidity. It's not overly rich nor is it skeletal; neither achingly cool nor old school traditional. It simply expresses the land from which it came, and for that is a complex and beautiful wine. Drink now–2030. Christina Pickard