Dry, leathery wine, its red cherry fruit given an edge by tannins. The wine has spice, although also a more austere, dark side. It needs time to open out.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.