Birichino 2013 Malvasia Bianca (Monterey)

This overly aromatic grape can be hard to train into a dry style, but the Bonny Doon-schooled team of Alex Krause and John Locke succeed with wonderfully floral aromas of 7-Up, stargazer lilies and orange blossoms. A nice citrus pith bitterness provides both tension and grip, with flavors sticking to the lemon-lime spectrum rather than the more common and sometimes cloying tropical style. Matt Kettmann

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