Very light on the nose, this bottling from 37-year-old vines shows squeezed lemon wedge, chilled Asian pear, hints of jicama and white rose petals on the nose. The citrusy palate is driven by a grapefruit pith flavor and enhanced with a touch of chalk. The texture is compellingly grippy.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.