Blair 2014 Delfina's Vineyard Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco)

There is an unctuous character to this bottling by iconoclastic cattleman-turned-vintner Jeffrey Blair, with hazelnut, apricot jam and mandarin orange on the nose. Almond oil shows on the palate, but then a rush of squeezed tangerine and sharp lemon-skin acidity arises, giving freshness while finishing with a pinch of vanilla dust. Matt Kettmann

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