Here is a remarkable rarity. The Terrantez grape is the rarest of all the Madeira grapes and also produces the most long-lived wines with examples from the 18th century still drinkable. This much younger wine, with its old-gold color, is the epitome of that tension in some Madeira between sweetness and intense acidity. Lime marmalade and huge concentration mark out this very fine wine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.