Cream, nutmeg and vanilla aromas waft from the nose, and continue on to the palate, where they are joined by sturdy, unyielding red fruits. Light- to medium-bodied, with some woodsy tannins, it feels rustic in the mouth. A good party quaff in theory, but it isn't the fruit-forward, jammy wine that your guests might be expecting. May be at its best with cheese. —D.M.