Bodegas LAN 2001 Culmen (Rioja)

With color akin to crude oil with a violet tint, this is one tank of a wine. The nose is massively roasted, with espresso, bacon fat and blackberry melding in monster fashion. In the mouth, there's more licorice, pepper and syrup than bounce, which makes it somewhat of a one-trick pony. Heady for sure, but lacking that extra nuance or two that the great ones have. Michael Schachner

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