Bodegas Valdemar 2002 Conde de Valdemar Reserva (Rioja)

The bouquet of cassis, liqueur and molasses would seem to portend a lush, deep, very ripe wine. But emblematic of the cool, wet 2002 harvest, this wine is crisp to the point of sharp, with oak coming up late and on the finish. Falls off with more time in the glass. Michael Schachner

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