Has the style become sweeter? Certainly, the label has changed. Bollinger's nonvintage is packed with ripe, full-bodied fruit. It is full in the mouth from the start, intense and concentrated, showing some bottle age. But that nagging feeling that it is less focused than in the past remains.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.