From Spring Mountain, a new Bond single-vineyard bottling. It's a big wine, a bit obvious and, for me, the least of the current batch. It's so big it's almost cumbersome, and lacks the breed and elegance of its sister wines. Toasty caramel overpowers, while the wine is as gooey-sweet as melted chocolate. It's a controversial wine, made from very young vines. Could be an ager.