While it is certainly rich, this wine is also finely balanced, elegant almost. The dusty tannins curl around the dark fruits, freshened by sweet acidity. It is powerful and concentrated, with some spice from new wood. An impressive wine, worth aging for two more years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.