Every now and then a knockout wine comes along that doesn't cost a fortune, like this star. Full, ripe fruit and deftly used oak team up to provide an inviting nose and compelling palate. The strength and depth of the fruit is impressive—it just continues to open and shine, as opposed to being embalmed in oak. Keeps you wanting more, right through the satisfying finish. Buy this model of affordable excellence by the case. You could hold this through 2005—but I bet you won't. Editors' Choice. —M.M.