This comes from high up in the Chevalier-Montrachet vineyard, from vines surrounding a small workers shed, the “cabotte.” It is the better of the two bottlings from this vineyard by Bouchard, although “better” here is like differentiating between two stars on top form. It has great poise, so although the richness is there, it is shot through with acidity and citric flavors that underline the huge, ripe fruit. Age for 10 years for best results.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.