Rich, generous, almost opulent, this brings together great layers of black fruits and figs, wood smoothness and dense, sensual ripeness allied to acidity. There's power here, too, but it's a wine to revel in.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.