Initially round, this develops a strong minerality, with a texture that is firm and dominating ripe fruit. There is definite austerity here. The wine is at present firm and tough, and needs several years to open up.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.