An intriguing wine, that offers ripe sweetness followed by an edgy rustic acidity. Is this a stage in its evolution? Probably, because the tannins promise aging and the intensely aromatic nature of the fruit points to a potentially fine wine. Just don't drink it yet.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.