Very mineral to start, only opening up slowly to offer a wonderful line of pure fruit. The texture is important—apple skin freshness dominant, along with spicy wood. This is for medium-term aging—4–5 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.