This potentially rich Champagne is still young. The Chardonnay and Pinot Noir that dominate the blend show tight acidity, minerality and a tangy, orange-like edge. Give it time to mature, and it will be splendid.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.