Brandborg 2007 Riesling (Umpqua Valley)

Creamy and dry, this outstanding effort boasts a wonderful array of tart green fruits—apples, citrus and berries— but goes the extra mile. A sharp, spicy edge is also evident, tasting like nothing so much as fresh pine needles, and the wine is loaded with creamy acids that set up the palate in much the same way that bone-dry Rieslings from Australia do. Paul Gregutt

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