Brewer-Clifton 2004 Rancho Santa Rosa Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills)

At nearly 16% alcohol, this is one of the biggest Chards I've ever had. It's totally dry and explosive in all sorts of late-picked, effusively ripe pineapple custard, lemon drop and apricot, caramelized brown sugar and cinnamon. A wine like this is an achievement anywhere, and while there are those who will object to its size, it is certainly delicious.

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