Brian Carter 2004 L'Etalon Red (Columbia Valley (WA))

This Bordeaux blend is a powerful, dark, earthy wine, scented with Bordeaux-like forest floor, herb and fungus. It's the sort of Cabernet that is not afraid of the grape's true varietal character, and promises to age beautifully. Right now it would need some considerable airing to show its best, but the compact and intriguing finish, with its panorama of earth, green and black tea, spice and cassis, is well worth the wait. Paul Gregutt

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