Grüner Veltliner's pepper is just below the surface of this fresh, but concentrated wine. It has lovely crispness, a burst of pear and orange peel flavors, and almost ethereal lightness. Ried Käferberg is a single vineyard just outside Langenlois.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.