The old vines on the steep slopes of the Heiligenstein vineyard give one of Austria's greatest wines. This is one of those Rieslings that will last indefinitely, a powerful, concentrated blend of white fruits, perfumes, peaches, very tight and closed now. Racy acidity and minerality shoot through the richness. Give this 10 years at least.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.