Old vines on the Heiligenstein hill offer a richly textured, impressive wine. There is terrific concentration allied to fragrant acidity, hints of white flowers and apricot fruit flavors. The future for this powerfully dense wine is considerable, so don't drink before 2018.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.